Wednesday, November 9, 2005
you can use a steel cutting blade on a circular saw, a regular blade on
backwards or you can use a nibbler or shears.
Anyone have any recommendations? I'm more interested in speed than a
super clean cut. (The flashing will cover it anyhow.)
You might try a metal blade in a Milwaukee Sawzall. however
be sure you shake/rinse off the rest of the sheet well after you put it
up as the filings will wreak havoc with the finish of most painted
metal. If you use a set of three jaws or nibblers it will be slower and
they tend to scar the sheet an inch or so out from either side of the
cut and the ribs are a bit tough. The cleanest is to cut by hand with a
set of offset shears but the fastest is the saw option.
Sunday, September 25, 2005
drywall in the hole first?
Screw a stick to the inside of the hole to support the patch. Fill the hole with a scrap of dry wall and put a coat of mud over it to just fill the cracks. Remove the screws after the mud dries, the patch should hold on its own. Then continue mudding, with taping over the joints. If worse comes to worse, you can replace the whole piece. Sheetrock is cheap and relatively easy to work with. Just take your Milwaukee Sawzall and cut out the old piece to the studs. Then you can install a new piece and tape and float it.
Monday, September 19, 2005
the two bathroom windows open into the sunroom. The sunroom is about 10' x 30', is unheated, and has large windows to the outside that are usually open on three sides. It has very good ventilation except in the middle of winter, when we close the windows. The attic is
immediately above the bathroom and sunroom.
I would like to add ventilation fans for the two bathrooms. The easiest way to do this would be to mount them on the wall to the sunroom, and vent the air directly into the sunroom. Is this an acceptable way to do it? Another option is to run the ducts inside the wall, down and out to the outside below the deck/sunroom. A third option is to run the vent into the attic and out the ridge vent at the peak of the roof. Is this possible? I saw it done in my old house. So far I have no soffit vents for the attic, but will be adding them shortly. Soffit vents would be hard to get to, except over the sunroom, if I put any there.
What is the best way to go about doing this? Should I just vent into the sunroom, since it is large and usually open, or do I need to do something more complicated? Thanks for all help.
Thanks for your email.
The only proper answer that can be given is to pipe the vents to the exterior. The attic route sounds the best to me. All fans have a limit of piping that can be installed on them, every turn
and twist requires deductions from this footage. Long horizontal runs are hard to do, and may require in-line booster fans. You can easily cut a hole in the sheetrock in the ceiling and install the fan. Sheetrock can easily be cut with a hand saw. However, when you cut a hole in the roof decking you will need something with more power. A Milwaukee Sawzall reciprocating saw will do the trick. Just get a sawzall with blade that will cut both metal and wood. This type of blade with make quick work of any nails you run across.
Also, most residential fans push the exhaust. Most commercial fans pull the exhaust by placing the fan on the roof and pipe to the room(s) with an exhaust grille system. The control wiring is longer, but no more complicated.
Saturday, September 17, 2005
He said that the only other place that the freon could be leaking is in the pipes from the upstairs unit to outside, which would involve drilling a hole in the wall, pulling the pipe out, and replacing, and then repairing the whole in the wall.
However, when the tech replaces the freon (with up to 2 pounds of freon), the Air Conditioner is ice cold again, and the last time he recharged it, it lasted for 2 weeks. Hopefully this time it will last longer, and the summer in the SouthEast will be over.
I've also replaced the filters and vacuumed the vents.
Have you seen this before.. where the freeon leaks over a period of say 2 weeks, but can't be detected, and upon recharging, it works fine.. for another 2 weeks. ?
Thanks in advance for your help..
That's a pretty well written description. IFF the tech was reliable and you have a leak in the walls, it seems funny he wasn't able to detect it anywhere. If it's leaking into the walls, there has to be an exit point for it and it'll be detectable there.
If it's actually "freon" as you said, that has a pretty good odor and at the loss rate you indicate, you should be able to smell it yourself, even.
Did the air conditioning tech use a refrigerant leak detector? This tool can "sniff" out a freon leak and tell you where it is located.
Also, if this is in the attic, I don't know why a hole would have to be made in a wall. It should be pretty easy to pull out the old and fish in a new pipe. Just my two cents; I know it isn't my money, but if I were you I think I'd try another service and if they came up with the same results, consider replacing what needs to be done. It's still cheaper than paying housecalls for freon every two weeks in your climate.
Friday, September 16, 2005
According to Miss Manners, yes, to entertain with mis-matched trim you would be dropped from the invitation list for the upcoming social season. You'll find yourself sitting home alone on New Year's Eve.
Just use a little common sense. If one is painted, both probably should be painted If one is rather gaudy, the other may look out of place if a plain clamshell. Your house, your rules, but you probably want something that complements the style of the house. Installing it really isn't that difficult. A good miter saw is necessary to make the various cuts. Like a good 45 degree angle. I found that using a cheap plastic mitre box and a hand saw was a real pain. By using a good power saw, the cuts will look better and you will keep your sanity.
Wednesday, June 29, 2005
Tuesday, June 21, 2005
Impact socket sets are often overlooked when purchasing an air impact wrench. However, the types of impact sockets you purchase will directly affect the types of jobs you can perform with your new impact wrench. For instance, you may need deep drive impact sockets to break that rusty nut at the bottom of a long bolt. Your normal socket may not reach down that far. How about trying to get into that funky corner that you go straight into. You will need a swivel impact socket that can reach that corner. Also, don't try using the sockets out of your hand socket set in the garage. An impact wrench is too powerful for those sockets and could break them.
Friday, June 17, 2005
Cordless Impact Drivers are taking the tool market by storm. If you are driving deck screws or lag bolts, a cordless impact wrench is the tool of choice. They drive better and there is no reactionary torque like in a cordless drill. They are also lighter and smaller. This will allow you to get into tight spots and be easier on your arm.
Thursday, June 16, 2005
Friday, May 27, 2005
Thursday, May 19, 2005
Tuesday, May 17, 2005
1.) Your impact wrench could have a dirty inlet Bushing or air strainer screen. To solve this problem, clean them with a suitable cleaning solution.
2.) Examine the cylinder. Replace it if it is worn or broken or
if the bore is scored or wavy.
3.) Disassemble tool and clean all parts with a suitable cleaning
solution, in a well–ventilated area. Reassemble the tool according to the impact wrench manual.
Thursday, May 12, 2005
Wednesday, May 11, 2005
Monday, May 9, 2005
Friday, May 6, 2005
English units of torque are pound-inches or pound-feet; the SI unit is the Newton-meter. Notice that the torque units contain a distance and a force. To calculate the torque, you just multiply the force by the distance from the center. In the case of the lug nuts, if the wrench is a foot long, and you put 200 pounds of force on it, you are generating 200 pound-feet of torque. If you use a 2-foot wrench, you only need to put 100 pounds of force on it to generate the same torque.
Thursday, May 5, 2005
Wednesday, May 4, 2005
Power tools run on electricity and air tools run on air. Therefore you need a power source. For air tools, you need an air compressor.Most air tools will run on some of the smaller air compressors, but the larger the better in most cases as some of these items can consume a lot of air. A larger tank capacity will give you more reserve air when you need it. For example, running you impact wrench extra hard may require some extra air and it sure is nice to have that larger tank. It is up to you to decide how large to get and your local dealer can help you. Consult the owners manual of your air tool to discover CFM requirements.
Tuesday, May 3, 2005
Monday, May 2, 2005
Many people wonder if using air tools is worth the cost purchasing an air compressor,hoses and the air tools. Why not just get an electric impact wrench or electric drill? Sometimes electric tools are a great choice but there are many reasons why air tools are superior.
Here are a few reasons why the extra cost for air tools is worth it.
1. The option of using air tools in a wet environment. You can't get electrocuted with an air tool. Feel free to drag that air hose through a puddle and stand in it with bare feet. No problem. Click here to see a guy who has one foot in the grave and doesn't know it.
2. Air compressors are a portable power source. You can operate your air tool anywhere you can haul your portable air compressor.
3. Air tools are generally more robust than electrical tools and require much less maintenance..
4. Air tools are far more powerful than electric tools. If you really have some tough lug nuts to loosen, nothing beats a 1/2" Ingersoll Rand Thundergun Impact.
Friday, April 29, 2005
Standard 1910.242(B) – Compressed air for cleaning purposes shall not exceed 30 pounds (13.5 kilograms) per square inch (6.5 square centimeters) when the nozzle end is obstructed or dead-ended, and then only with effective chip guarding and personal protective equipment.1
Standard 1910.95(a) – Protection against effects of occupational noise exposure shall be provided when the sound levels exceed those shown in Table G-16 of the Safety and Health Standards. Feasible engineering and/or administrative controls shall be utilized to keep exposure below the allowable limit.1
Thursday, April 28, 2005
cause equipment damage or possible injury.
Below are brief descriptions of each component:
Filter - Removes liquid, ,moisture or oil aerosols and submicron particles from a compressed air line before it reaches your air tool.
Regulator - Regulates the compressed air. Provides pressure regulation for the various requirements for air tools, impact wrenches etc. The variety of sizes and designs increase accuracy for the particular application.
Lubricator - Dispenses lubrication to air tools, impact wrench. Most air tools require lubrication to run at peak efficiency. Lubricators can provide constant lubrication according to factory recommended specifications reducing maintenance and downtime costs.
Wednesday, April 27, 2005
Tuesday, April 26, 2005
Quick disconnects offer an easy way of connecting pneumatic lines to your air tool and air compressor. The operating principle for sleeve type couplers is pretty simple. When the sliding sleeve on the coupler is retracted, internal locking balls are released, permitting the connector to be inserted or removed. The body size and flow capacity of quick disconnects generally corresponds to the inside diameter of the hose with which they are used. Most quick disconnects are very reliable and the designs have been around for awhile. Have several hoses around can sure make like a lot easier. Especially when you have to reach that really difficult spot with your impact wrench. Also remember there is always pressure loss along the length of the hose. The longer the hose the more pressure you are going to lose.
Monday, April 25, 2005
Conventional impact wrenches provide a torque output setting, but it is really up to the operator to determine when a nut is tight enough. These are some of the more common air tools found in the workplace.
Torque control impact air tools will shutoff at the predetermined torque setting. They are built for jobs that require accurate tightening. They incorporate built-in or detachable torsion bars. Based on their diameter and degree of adjustment, the torsion bar senses a predetermined torque level, and mechanically signals an internal shut-off device to prevent over-torquing
Sunday, April 24, 2005
One of the more critical aspects of air compressors is the duty cycle. It is also one of the least understood. Simply stated it is how long the compressor actually runs. It is described using a percentage and tells you how the unit runs during a certain amount of time. For example, if you have an air compressor rated with a 50% duty cycle, the compressor will run for 10 minutes in a 20 minute period. If the operator exceeds 50%, you can damage the unit. Most hardware store compressors are rated at 50% duty cycle and industrial units are rated at 75% and higher. In a nutshell the higher the duty cylce the more production you will get out of your air tool. For the garage hobbiest, 50% is probably ok. But if time is money, consider investing in a higher duty cycle. Also consult the specifications from your air tool manufacturer for more information.
Friday, April 22, 2005
Basically a belt drive is what you want to run your impact wrench or air tool. Cheaper units all employ a direct drive system that runs at lower RPMs. Direct drives are directly connected to the motor. Therefore they are limited to running at the same RPM as the motor. Some motors run at higher RPMs to produce more air, however you will soon run it into the ground. Also, they are so loud that you can hear it in the next county. A belt drive compressor is the better alternative most of the time. A belt drive allows the pump to move a lot slower than motor. This translates into longer life. I would recommend an oil lubricated, belt drive compressor. However if need a smaller unit that is easier to transport, you may have to go with a direct drive model.
Thursday, April 21, 2005
There is a lot of confusion about single or two stage compressors. Is a 2 stage better than a single stage?
Again, it comes down to application and how much you are going to use your air tools. Also, how much pressure you really need will factor into your decision. Here are the basics. In a single stage compressor, the cylinder pumps air straight into the tank. In a two stage compressor, the first cylinder pumps the air into the second cylinder at about 90 psi. Then the air is pumped into the tank at about 175 psi. So you really only need to buy a 2 stage if you need the higher pressure. For most jobs a good single stage is fine for you air tools or impact wrench. You are better off buying a good single stage that a cheap 2 stage from your local hardware store.
Wednesday, April 20, 2005
Tank sizes are generally stated in US gallons. For example, 30 gallon is a common tank size. So the question remains, how large a tank do I need? First of all, don't confuse a large tank with more run time for your air tools. If you use your impact intermittently, a large tank is fine. However if you have need for continuous use, you will need a small tank with big enough pump and motor. If the pump and motor are powerful enough, you shouldn't run out of air. You can save some dollars by purchasing an air compressor with a large tank and smaller motor for intermittent use. If you need to run a 1" impact wrench (about 20 CFM) intermittently, and have a small compressor with a large tank, you might have enough air stored in the tank to do the job. However, if you are constantly running your air tool, you will need to invest in a more powerful air compressor to do the job.
CFM stands for "cubic feet per minute". It is a measurement of volume. Basically it is how much air is being moved. Air tools require a certain amount of air to run on. PSI is just part of equation. Don't be confused by different CFM ratings at different pressures. Every manufacturer is trying to make their product look better by giving higher CFM ratings at different pressures. The only real concern is how much CFM you will get at 90 PSI. Remember 90 PSI is what most air tools require to operate. To find out what your air tool needs to run, just look on the box for the manufacturers specs. Generally, air tools require 4 - 6 CFM. A good rule of thumb on air compressors is you should get 3 -4 CFM per real HP at 90 PSI.
Tuesday, April 19, 2005
The next consideration when purchasing a new air compressor is, "How much PSI will I need?"
For the newbies, PSI is short for "pounds per square inch" and this is how most compressors in the US are rated. In Europe, you will see them measured in bars. PSI is all you need to worry about on this side of the Atlantic.
Most of the commonly used air tools require about 90 PSI to operate correctly. However, you will still need a compressor with a higher shut-off pressure. Most air compressors that you find at the local hardware giant are "single-stage" and shut off at 125 - 135 PSI. Don't let that fool you. You might think all you need is 90 psi, so that should work just fine. Generally, these light duty compressors shut off at 100 psi and don't forget about pressure loss in the line. The little light duty compressor will barely run an impact.It might be fine for light duty garage use, but if you really intend use your air tool, more is definitely better. Many industrial compressors are "two-stage," which means they build up to shut-off pressure in two stages. The first stage builds to about 90 PSI and the second stage builds to 175 PSI.
Monday, April 18, 2005
The first topic will be horse power and how they are rated.
First of all, all horse power ratings are not created equal. What I mean is, you go to your local giant hardware retailer to pick out a new air compressor to run your impact. They have a 5 hp unit that is priced really cheap. Why is that 5 hp industrial unit cost so much more? 5 hp is 5 hp, right? Wrong.
Let me explain. Look at how much power the hardware store unit draws. It probably needs around 15 amps from a normal 110 volt circuit. At this rating,you are really getting only 2 hp. The 5hp rating on the box is inflated. To really produce true 5 hp you need at least 24 amps from 220 volt circuit to get it. If you are looking for 5 hp electric compressor, buy the industrial unit and stay away from the cheaper unit at your local hardware store.