I've got some cuts to make for the gabled ends of a pole barn. Says
you can use a steel cutting blade on a circular saw, a regular blade on
backwards or you can use a nibbler or shears.

Anyone have any recommendations? I'm more interested in speed than a
super clean cut. (The flashing will cover it anyhow.)

Thanks much.

You might try a metal blade in a Milwaukee Sawzall. however
be sure you shake/rinse off the rest of the sheet well after you put it
up as the filings will wreak havoc with the finish of most painted
metal. If you use a set of three jaws or nibblers it will be slower and
they tend to scar the sheet an inch or so out from either side of the
cut and the ribs are a bit tough. The cleanest is to cut by hand with a
set of offset shears but the fastest is the saw option.

Drywall repair

I have a hole in a drywall wall to repair. It is about 2 inches wide and about 6 inches long. The drywall is 5/8th thickness. Is the best way to repair it, to fill the hole with mud and then put drywall tape over it? Then sand and add more mud as needed? Or should I try to put a piece of
drywall in the hole first?

Screw a stick to the inside of the hole to support the patch. Fill the hole with a scrap of dry wall and put a coat of mud over it to just fill the cracks. Remove the screws after the mud dries, the patch should hold on its own. Then continue mudding, with taping over the joints. If worse comes to worse, you can replace the whole piece. Sheetrock is cheap and relatively easy to work with. Just take your Milwaukee Sawzall and cut out the old piece to the studs. Then you can install a new piece and tape and float it.

Bathroom vent question

I have a house built in the early 70s in Northern Virginia. Two bathrooms are on the second floor and do not have conventional venting, only windows. The windows used to open to the outside, but the previous owner converted the second-floor deck into a sunroom, and now
the two bathroom windows open into the sunroom. The sunroom is about 10' x 30', is unheated, and has large windows to the outside that are usually open on three sides. It has very good ventilation except in the middle of winter, when we close the windows. The attic is
immediately above the bathroom and sunroom.

I would like to add ventilation fans for the two bathrooms. The easiest way to do this would be to mount them on the wall to the sunroom, and vent the air directly into the sunroom. Is this an acceptable way to do it? Another option is to run the ducts inside the wall, down and out to the outside below the deck/sunroom. A third option is to run the vent into the attic and out the ridge vent at the peak of the roof. Is this possible? I saw it done in my old house. So far I have no soffit vents for the attic, but will be adding them shortly. Soffit vents would be hard to get to, except over the sunroom, if I put any there.

What is the best way to go about doing this? Should I just vent into the sunroom, since it is large and usually open, or do I need to do something more complicated? Thanks for all help.

Thanks for your email.

The only proper answer that can be given is to pipe the vents to the exterior. The attic route sounds the best to me. All fans have a limit of piping that can be installed on them, every turn
and twist requires deductions from this footage. Long horizontal runs are hard to do, and may require in-line booster fans. You can easily cut a hole in the sheetrock in the ceiling and install the fan. Sheetrock can easily be cut with a hand saw. However, when you cut a hole in the roof decking you will need something with more power. A Milwaukee Sawzall reciprocating saw will do the trick. Just get a sawzall with blade that will cut both metal and wood. This type of blade with make quick work of any nails you run across.

Also, most residential fans push the exhaust. Most commercial fans pull the exhaust by placing the fan on the roof and pipe to the room(s) with an exhaust grille system. The control wiring is longer, but no more complicated.

House Air Conditioner is leaking freon.

I'm having an issue with one of the Air Conditioning systems in my house.. For some reasons only the upstairs unit seems to be leaking freeon. He tried using the bubble detector solution, but wasn't able to find any leaks with that. He did this in both places, in the attic near the coil, and outside by opening the unit near the compressor..

He said that the only other place that the freon could be leaking is in the pipes from the upstairs unit to outside, which would involve drilling a hole in the wall, pulling the pipe out, and replacing, and then repairing the whole in the wall.

However, when the tech replaces the freon (with up to 2 pounds of freon), the Air Conditioner is ice cold again, and the last time he recharged it, it lasted for 2 weeks. Hopefully this time it will last longer, and the summer in the SouthEast will be over.

I've also replaced the filters and vacuumed the vents.

Have you seen this before.. where the freeon leaks over a period of say 2 weeks, but can't be detected, and upon recharging, it works fine.. for another 2 weeks. ?

Thanks in advance for your help..

That's a pretty well written description. IFF the tech was reliable and you have a leak in the walls, it seems funny he wasn't able to detect it anywhere. If it's leaking into the walls, there has to be an exit point for it and it'll be detectable there.

If it's actually "freon" as you said, that has a pretty good odor and at the loss rate you indicate, you should be able to smell it yourself, even.

Did the air conditioning tech use a refrigerant leak detector? This tool can "sniff" out a freon leak and tell you where it is located.

Also, if this is in the attic, I don't know why a hole would have to be made in a wall. It should be pretty easy to pull out the old and fish in a new pipe. Just my two cents; I know it isn't my money, but if I were you I think I'd try another service and if they came up with the same results, consider replacing what needs to be done. It's still cheaper than paying housecalls for freon every two weeks in your climate.

Do floor molding and door trim need to match?

I'm thinking about replacing my floor molding and have heard that the floor molding and door trim must match in order to be "proper". Is this true?

According to Miss Manners, yes, to entertain with mis-matched trim you would be dropped from the invitation list for the upcoming social season. You'll find yourself sitting home alone on New Year's Eve.
Just use a little common sense. If one is painted, both probably should be painted If one is rather gaudy, the other may look out of place if a plain clamshell. Your house, your rules, but you probably want something that complements the style of the house. Installing it really isn't that difficult. A good miter saw is necessary to make the various cuts. Like a good 45 degree angle. I found that using a cheap plastic mitre box and a hand saw was a real pain. By using a good power saw, the cuts will look better and you will keep your sanity.

Air Impact Wrench,Air Tools,Ingersoll Rand,Chicago Pneumatic,Ingersol

Air Impact Wrench,Air Tools,Ingersoll Rand,Chicago Pneumatic,Ingersol



this is a test of my blog

Impact Socket Set,Impact Sockets,Sunex

Impact Socket Set,Impact Sockets,Sunex



Impact socket sets are often overlooked when purchasing an air impact wrench. However, the types of impact sockets you purchase will directly affect the types of jobs you can perform with your new impact wrench. For instance, you may need deep drive impact sockets to break that rusty nut at the bottom of a long bolt. Your normal socket may not reach down that far. How about trying to get into that funky corner that you go straight into. You will need a swivel impact socket that can reach that corner. Also, don't try using the sockets out of your hand socket set in the garage. An impact wrench is too powerful for those sockets and could break them.

DeWalt Cordless Impact Wrench,Dewalt,cordless impact driver

DeWalt Cordless Impact Wrench,Dewalt,cordless impact driver



Cordless Impact Drivers are taking the tool market by storm. If you are driving deck screws or lag bolts, a cordless impact wrench is the tool of choice. They drive better and there is no reactionary torque like in a cordless drill. They are also lighter and smaller. This will allow you to get into tight spots and be easier on your arm.

Air Sanders and buffers

An air sander and buffer is a common air tool often overlooked by most people. Your average person mainly thinks of air tools as impact wrenches and air drills. However an air sander is far more powerful than the cheapy one most people purchase at the locat giant hardware store. If your are looking for high production sanding and buffing, check out the different models available. There orbital sanders,dual action sanders and palm grip sanders for any application. Air sander and buffer combinations are available as well. With this air tool you can use it as a sander or as buffer for your car or boat.

In-line filter and in-line lubricator

Inline filters are a really good idea to remove contaminants from air tools and moisture. You need to drain them periodically as well. Another good idea is put an in-line lubricator to increase the life of your air impact wrench. An in-lubricator lubricates your air tool as you are using it. You should pour some oil in it and run your air tool before storing it after use. Consult your manufacturer specs for the proper oil to use.

Impact wrench can overtorque your lug nuts.

Be careful about using an impact wrench to tighten your lug nuts on your car. Most mechanics routinely ignore manufacturer warnings to use a torque wrench when tightening lug nuts. Most will use the impact wrench because it is fast not accurate. More is definitely NOT better with torque. You can over torque your lug nuts and damage the studs. When the nuts are tightened, the studs will stretch. This tension holds the wheels on to the rim. If you overtighten the studs you can damage them and they could fail. They best approach is to use an impact wrench to snug up the nuts. Then go back with a torque wrench and tighten them to the manufacturer specifications. Proper air tools make all the difference.

Impact Wrench won't impact!

The simplest and most direct solution to this problem is to check and make sure the impact wrench has been properly lubricated. To resolve this problem, remove the hammer case assembly and lubricate the mechanism. Once the hammer case has been removed inspect the impact wrench mechanism parts. Replace any broken or work parts. For an example of how to remove the assemble case for an Ingersoll Rand 2161XP air impact wrench, refer to the manufacturers manual on my website.

Low power on your impact wrench

Low power on your air impact wrench can be very frustrating and really slow down your productivity. Before you throw away a perfectly good air tool, there are a few things you should check that could easily correct the problem.

1.) Your impact wrench could have a dirty inlet Bushing or air strainer screen. To solve this problem, clean them with a suitable cleaning solution.

2.) Examine the cylinder. Replace it if it is worn or broken or
if the bore is scored or wavy.

3.) Disassemble tool and clean all parts with a suitable cleaning
solution, in a well–ventilated area. Reassemble the tool according to the impact wrench manual.

Air tools and air pollution.

Like it or not the everyday air we breath into lungs is filled with contaminants. Dust,water,mold are all in the air around us. Now factor in an air compressor that compresses this "dirty" air for use with your air tools. In a compressed state these particles become far more destructive and concentrated. These particles then begin to damage and wear away at your air compressor,air lines and air tools. Dirt,rust, pipe scale are a few of the contaminants that will find their way into your air system. They can wear out seals, damage finished products, reduce the efficiency of air tools. For example, your prized air impact wrench may put out as much torque as it used to.

Beware of over oiling.

One of the most common and easily avoidable with air tools is over oiling. All of us have been guilty one or another of thinking "that more is better". However with regard to oiling your valuable air tools this is not the case. Flooding your air impact wrench with oil will not increase its life. A good rule of thumb is a drop of oil per day.

Ingersoll Rand and TNT - An Explosive Combination!

From Ingersoll Rand one of the world's leading manufacturers of air compressors and air tools comes the Titanium and Torque series of air impact wrenches. These air tools are the "Cadillac" tools of the IR line. They are light and sleek looking.The Titanium TNT series 2115Ti is small, lightweight (2.4 lbs) and powerful (280 ft. lbs. torque). This air impact wrench delivers more power than many 1/2" drive impacts that you find at your local big box hardware store. The housing is manufactured out of titanium and a composite material that makes for a light and agile air tool. It delivers 1,500 hammer blows per minute through twin hammers and has a load-free speed of 15,000 rpm that is delivered to a 3/8" drive. I'm sorry, all air impact wrenches are not created equal and the Titanium impacts prove that. Your money is well spent on these excellent air tools. Ingersoll Rand gives these air tools a 1 year warranty on the air impact wrench and parts should not be difficult to find.

What is torque?

Torque is a force that tends to rotate or turn things. For example, you generate a torque any time you apply a force using an impact wrench. Tightening the lug nuts on your wheels is a good example. When you use an impact wrench, you are applying force to the socket. This force creates a torque on the lug nut, which tends to turn the lug nut.

English units of torque are pound-inches or pound-feet; the SI unit is the Newton-meter. Notice that the torque units contain a distance and a force. To calculate the torque, you just multiply the force by the distance from the center. In the case of the lug nuts, if the wrench is a foot long, and you put 200 pounds of force on it, you are generating 200 pound-feet of torque. If you use a 2-foot wrench, you only need to put 100 pounds of force on it to generate the same torque.

Water contamination - the enemy of your air tool

Water contamination is the great enemy to your prized impact wrench and other expensive air tools. The common misconception is that if you just drain the air supply tank of excess water, you are protecting your air tool from water damage. While draining your air supply tank is good, you are only preventing rust damage in the tank. The air outlet is generally at the top of the tank and the water in the bottom doesn't make it up there to damage your impact wrench. How then does water get into your air lines and then to your air tool? The answer is condensation. Water condenses and builds up in the air hoses and then travels to your air tool. The solution to this problem is install a water filter in your air hose. A good place to put it is midway down your air hose. There it will be out of the way when use your impact wrench under your car and you are trying to get into a tight space.

Air compressor - power source for air tools

Power tools run on electricity and air tools run on air. Therefore you need a power source. For air tools, you need an air compressor.Most air tools will run on some of the smaller air compressors, but the larger the better in most cases as some of these items can consume a lot of air. A larger tank capacity will give you more reserve air when you need it. For example, running you impact wrench extra hard may require some extra air and it sure is nice to have that larger tank. It is up to you to decide how large to get and your local dealer can help you. Consult the owners manual of your air tool to discover CFM requirements.

What type of oil & grease do I use on my air tool?

Any good brand of oil is acceptable for use on your air tool. The impact mechanism requires a certain grease; see your owner's manual for the specific grease. See your local tool jobber or service center to purchase these items. Remember to always keep your impact wrench properly greased and lubricated.

Air tools or electric power tools???

Many people wonder if using air tools is worth the cost purchasing an air compressor,hoses and the air tools. Why not just get an electric impact wrench or electric drill? Sometimes electric tools are a great choice but there are many reasons why air tools are superior.

Here are a few reasons why the extra cost for air tools is worth it.

1. The option of using air tools in a wet environment. You can't get electrocuted with an air tool. Feel free to drag that air hose through a puddle and stand in it with bare feet. No problem. Click here to see a guy who has one foot in the grave and doesn't know it.

2. Air compressors are a portable power source. You can operate your air tool anywhere you can haul your portable air compressor.

3. Air tools are generally more robust than electrical tools and require much less maintenance..

4. Air tools are far more powerful than electric tools. If you really have some tough lug nuts to loosen, nothing beats a 1/2" Ingersoll Rand Thundergun Impact.

Blow gun for air compressors

A blowgun is an air tool designed for use in many industrial applications where compressed air for cleaning purposes is used. Blowguns can be purchased with many tip configurations for many possible applications. However, the most important factor in choosing the right blowgun is SAFETY. Mostly it is common sense. You should always wear saftey glasses like you would with any other air tool. Safety includes the following considerations: PSI (force), noise level, and ergonomics. Safety Standards for PSI and noise level are outlined in the following US Department of Labor, OSHA Standards For General Industry Revision 1999:
Standard 1910.242(B) – Compressed air for cleaning purposes shall not exceed 30 pounds (13.5 kilograms) per square inch (6.5 square centimeters) when the nozzle end is obstructed or dead-ended, and then only with effective chip guarding and personal protective equipment.1
Standard 1910.95(a) – Protection against effects of occupational noise exposure shall be provided when the sound levels exceed those shown in Table G-16 of the Safety and Health Standards. Feasible engineering and/or administrative controls shall be utilized to keep exposure below the allowable limit.1

Filter,regulator, and lubricator for air compressors

In today's tough work environments filtered, regulated, and lubricated compressed air is essential in all industries and applications. Using all three of these methods will extend the life of your air tools, impact wrenches, pneumatic controls, pneumatic valves, etc., reducing maintenance and downtime costs. Failure to use properly filtered,regulated and lubrication will
cause equipment damage or possible injury.

Below are brief descriptions of each component:

Filter - Removes liquid, ,moisture or oil aerosols and submicron particles from a compressed air line before it reaches your air tool.

Regulator - Regulates the compressed air. Provides pressure regulation for the various requirements for air tools, impact wrenches etc. The variety of sizes and designs increase accuracy for the particular application.

Lubricator - Dispenses lubrication to air tools, impact wrench. Most air tools require lubrication to run at peak efficiency. Lubricators can provide constant lubrication according to factory recommended specifications reducing maintenance and downtime costs.

Calibrating your air tool

You need to calibrate your air tool regularly because mechanical parts wear out, contamination, lubrication runs out and general abuse. Most manufacturers have strict procedures requiring the periodic calibration of air tools. Normally calibration is required at least once a year. Ingersoll-Rand recommends every 6 months or 100,000 cycles.

Quick disconnects for air tool hoses

Quick disconnects offer an easy way of connecting pneumatic lines to your air tool and air compressor. The operating principle for sleeve type couplers is pretty simple. When the sliding sleeve on the coupler is retracted, internal locking balls are released, permitting the connector to be inserted or removed. The body size and flow capacity of quick disconnects generally corresponds to the inside diameter of the hose with which they are used. Most quick disconnects are very reliable and the designs have been around for awhile. Have several hoses around can sure make like a lot easier. Especially when you have to reach that really difficult spot with your impact wrench. Also remember there is always pressure loss along the length of the hose. The longer the hose the more pressure you are going to lose.

Impacts and torque control

Impact wrenches basically have to different types of torque control.

Conventional impact wrenches provide a torque output setting, but it is really up to the operator to determine when a nut is tight enough. These are some of the more common air tools found in the workplace.

Torque control impact air tools will shutoff at the predetermined torque setting. They are built for jobs that require accurate tightening. They incorporate built-in or detachable torsion bars. Based on their diameter and degree of adjustment, the torsion bar senses a predetermined torque level, and mechanically signals an internal shut-off device to prevent over-torquing

Choosing the right air compressor for you air tools - Duty cycle

One of the more critical aspects of air compressors is the duty cycle. It is also one of the least understood. Simply stated it is how long the compressor actually runs. It is described using a percentage and tells you how the unit runs during a certain amount of time. For example, if you have an air compressor rated with a 50% duty cycle, the compressor will run for 10 minutes in a 20 minute period. If the operator exceeds 50%, you can damage the unit. Most hardware store compressors are rated at 50% duty cycle and industrial units are rated at 75% and higher. In a nutshell the higher the duty cylce the more production you will get out of your air tool. For the garage hobbiest, 50% is probably ok. But if time is money, consider investing in a higher duty cycle. Also consult the specifications from your air tool manufacturer for more information.

Choosing the right air compressor for you air tools - Belt or Direct drive?

Basically a belt drive is what you want to run your impact wrench or air tool. Cheaper units all employ a direct drive system that runs at lower RPMs. Direct drives are directly connected to the motor. Therefore they are limited to running at the same RPM as the motor. Some motors run at higher RPMs to produce more air, however you will soon run it into the ground. Also, they are so loud that you can hear it in the next county. A belt drive compressor is the better alternative most of the time. A belt drive allows the pump to move a lot slower than motor. This translates into longer life. I would recommend an oil lubricated, belt drive compressor. However if need a smaller unit that is easier to transport, you may have to go with a direct drive model.

Choosing the right air compressor for you air tools - 1 or 2 Stage

There is a lot of confusion about single or two stage compressors. Is a 2 stage better than a single stage?

Again, it comes down to application and how much you are going to use your air tools. Also, how much pressure you really need will factor into your decision. Here are the basics. In a single stage compressor, the cylinder pumps air straight into the tank. In a two stage compressor, the first cylinder pumps the air into the second cylinder at about 90 psi. Then the air is pumped into the tank at about 175 psi. So you really only need to buy a 2 stage if you need the higher pressure. For most jobs a good single stage is fine for you air tools or impact wrench. You are better off buying a good single stage that a cheap 2 stage from your local hardware store.

Choosing the right air compressor for your air tools - Tank Size

The next factor to consider is tank size.

Tank sizes are generally stated in US gallons. For example, 30 gallon is a common tank size. So the question remains, how large a tank do I need? First of all, don't confuse a large tank with more run time for your air tools. If you use your impact intermittently, a large tank is fine. However if you have need for continuous use, you will need a small tank with big enough pump and motor. If the pump and motor are powerful enough, you shouldn't run out of air. You can save some dollars by purchasing an air compressor with a large tank and smaller motor for intermittent use. If you need to run a 1" impact wrench (about 20 CFM) intermittently, and have a small compressor with a large tank, you might have enough air stored in the tank to do the job. However, if you are constantly running your air tool, you will need to invest in a more powerful air compressor to do the job.

Choosing the right air compressor for your air tools - CFM

The next rating criteria for air compressors is CFM.

CFM stands for "cubic feet per minute". It is a measurement of volume. Basically it is how much air is being moved. Air tools require a certain amount of air to run on. PSI is just part of equation. Don't be confused by different CFM ratings at different pressures. Every manufacturer is trying to make their product look better by giving higher CFM ratings at different pressures. The only real concern is how much CFM you will get at 90 PSI. Remember 90 PSI is what most air tools require to operate. To find out what your air tool needs to run, just look on the box for the manufacturers specs. Generally, air tools require 4 - 6 CFM. A good rule of thumb on air compressors is you should get 3 -4 CFM per real HP at 90 PSI.

Choosing the right air compressor for you air tools - PSI

The next consideration when purchasing a new air compressor is, "How much PSI will I need?"

For the newbies, PSI is short for "pounds per square inch" and this is how most compressors in the US are rated. In Europe, you will see them measured in bars. PSI is all you need to worry about on this side of the Atlantic.
Most of the commonly used air tools require about 90 PSI to operate correctly. However, you will still need a compressor with a higher shut-off pressure. Most air compressors that you find at the local hardware giant are "single-stage" and shut off at 125 - 135 PSI. Don't let that fool you. You might think all you need is 90 psi, so that should work just fine. Generally, these light duty compressors shut off at 100 psi and don't forget about pressure loss in the line. The little light duty compressor will barely run an impact.It might be fine for light duty garage use, but if you really intend use your air tool, more is definitely better. Many industrial compressors are "two-stage," which means they build up to shut-off pressure in two stages. The first stage builds to about 90 PSI and the second stage builds to 175 PSI.

Choosing the right air compressor for your air tools

In the next few posts, I will give you a brief overview for selecting the right size air compressors to run your air tools.

The first topic will be horse power and how they are rated.

First of all, all horse power ratings are not created equal. What I mean is, you go to your local giant hardware retailer to pick out a new air compressor to run your impact. They have a 5 hp unit that is priced really cheap. Why is that 5 hp industrial unit cost so much more? 5 hp is 5 hp, right? Wrong.

Let me explain. Look at how much power the hardware store unit draws. It probably needs around 15 amps from a normal 110 volt circuit. At this rating,you are really getting only 2 hp. The 5hp rating on the box is inflated. To really produce true 5 hp you need at least 24 amps from 220 volt circuit to get it. If you are looking for 5 hp electric compressor, buy the industrial unit and stay away from the cheaper unit at your local hardware store.

Proper pressure for air tools.

A common question most people have is "How much air pressure does my Ingersoll Rand air tool need to run properly?" Air pressure at the tool should be no lower that 90 psi and no higher that 100 psi. Remember to figure some loss of pressure down the air hose. The critical factor is air pressure AT the air tool not the compressor.